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“We’re food-safe in this house,” said Jess Krieger, founder and CEO of the cultivated-meat company Ohayo Valley, as she pulled on a pair of black plastic gloves to lay out the three burgers I was about to try.

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Could a lab-grown burger be everything I dreamed it might be? From left to right: an Impossible Foods plant-based burger, Ohayo Valley's lab-grown burger, and a beef burger. So I’m really intrigued by the promise that cultivated meat could replicate the experience of eating meat without all that climate baggage. Animal agriculture makes up nearly 15% of global greenhouse-gas emissions, and beef is a particular offender, with more emissions per gram than basically any other meat. But as a climate reporter, I’m keenly aware of the impact that eating meat has on the planet.

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I drink whole milk in my lattes, and I can’t turn down a hot dog at a summer cookout. And in the middle, the star of the show: a burger made with lab-grown meat. On the right, an old-fashioned beef burger. On the far left was a plant-based burger from Impossible Foods. Sitting in a booth in a hotel lobby in Brooklyn, I stared down the lineup of sliders, each on a separate bamboo plate.










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